Ama Dablam is a mountain in the eastern Himalayan range of Province No. 1, Nepal. The lower western peak is 6,170 meters (20,243 feet) high while the main peak is 6,812 meters (22,349 feet) high. Ama Dablam, which translates to “Mother’s necklace,” is named for the hanging glacier and long ridges that resemble the arms of a mother (ama) shielding her child. Ama Dablam is also the name of the customary double-pendant that Sherpa women wear to honor the gods. Anybody hiking to Mount Everest basecamp will see Ama Dablam dominating the eastern sky for several days. For its soaring ridges and steep faces Ama Dablam is sometimes referred as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas.”

By using the Southwest Ridge, Mike Gill (New Zealand), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (New Zealand) conquered Ama Dablam for the first time on March 13, 1961. They had spent the winter at 5800 meters close to the peak’s base as a member of Sir Edmund Hillary’s Silver Hut Scientific Expedition in 1960–1961, thus they were well acclimated to the altitude.

The third most sought-after Himalayan mountain for authorized excursions is Ama Dablam. The Southwest Ridge is by far the most popular route (right skyline in the photo). Three camps are normally established along the ridge, with camp three being located immediately beneath and to the right of the Dablam hanging glacier. The glacier’s ice usually calves off to the left, away from the camp. However an avalanche in 2006 shown that this isn’t always the case. While climbing Ama Dablam, you need a climbing permit and a liaison officer. The ideal climbing seasons are April through May (before the monsoon) and September through October, just like Mt. Everest.

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AMA DABLAM MOUNTAIN

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